9fbtechreview.comSEPTEMBER 2024all around that has been a big subject for many years for growers and producers, incredible territories with amazing winemaking traditions. Still, also newer generations of winemakers are approaching the scene and understanding that Italian wines have to have approachability and balance between tannins, fruit, alcohol, acidity and sense of place, despite Sagrantino di Montefalco being a tannic powerhouse, Nebbiolo is the king of gastronomic wines and Primitivo di Manduria the juicy, jammy and quite alcoholic Southern Italian red wine.I think as a wine-producing country, Italy has to be capable of better telling its history and wine stories, united as Italian wine but at the same time fiercely independent and "campalinisti" as expected to be. Raising the quality bar and offering unique wines from sparkling like (the behemoth) Prosecco Doc and Docg but also Franciacorta, Trento Doc, Alta Langa, Lambruscos that are just succulent and dark but also pinkish and savory and laser-like sharp and the many other gorgeous sparklers out there; to an amazing array of white wines with Pinot Grigio (like it or not) leading the way but also savory and briny Vermentinos, age-worthy Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino, volcanic Etna biancos and Soaves to die for, but every region has its own grapes, flavors and tastes. Reds have been the ones suffering most, maybe because there is a trend towards less alcoholic wines and maybe also consuming wines more as aperitifs and in more casual settings without necessarily accompanying full meals. Nonetheless I still personally believe there is a bright future for Italian reds beyond the established big boys (Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Barolo, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo), many varietals can offer a fresh, vibrant, crunchy personality coupled with floral/berried fruits aromas and flavors with lower to medium alcohol levels, just imagine a Valpolicella Classico or Valle d'Aosta Fumin, Schiava from Lake Caldaro in Alto-Adige but also Rossese di Dolceacqua in Liguria's westernmost part that is a perfect companion to fish soups, and going further down the boot a high elevation Sangiovese is a thing of beauty and balance, and worthy of mention the wines of Castel del Monte in Puglia's higher reaches and finally Nerello Mascalese from Etna's peaks with their savory, herbal and floral character.Recently, I read an article about the Valpolicella area where 67 million bottles of wine are produced, 14.2 million of which Amarone della Valpolicella (17% of the total production) is a full, generous, fruit-forward and higher alcohol wine byproduct of the appassimento (de-hydration) process of the grapes post-harvest. A wine historically heavily exported in Northern Europe, Canada, and the US, which is facing its own challenges (connected to global warming) due to the wine's opulent character and higher alcohol. Producers have been working on updating the production regulatory system (DOCG) for Amarone to possibly reduce the period of appassimento of the grapes reduce the residual sugars (eventually turning into alcohol), reduce the current aging requirement and select the proper vessel for aging, appropriate trellising system and proper zoning of the territory to define each valley, hill, vineyard. There is lots of work ahead for the producers in the Valpolicella area to make a fresher, livelier, and more drinkable Amarone.Mine are only hopes based on such a colorful scenery of amazingly unique grape varietals and spectacularly unique territories scattered through the countryside of Italy that hopefully will capture the taste buds and enjoyment for a taste of la dolce vita of many.We don't know what 2024 will bring, but we can only hope for a healthier wine world. A wine historically heavily exported in Northern Europe, Canada and US which is facing its own challenges (connected to global warming) due to the wine's opulent character and higher alcohol
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